I recently attended a conference on Kaua’i and was able to stay a few extra days to do some sight seeing. On one of those days I went on a long day hike on the Kalalau Trail with a group of friends: CK, Kenza, Erica, Diane, Brian, and Luke. It’s a rugged trail with a good amount of elevation change, but the ocean views and towering cliffs are well worth the effort!
Trip Planning
Specs: 14.3 mi | +/- 4100 ft
Difficulty: Class 1 [ratings]
Location: Napali Coast State Wilderness Park | Home of Nā moku ‘ehā peoples | View on Map
Route: Follow the Kalalau Trail from the Haena State Park entrance to Hanapaki’ai Beach. Here, the trail climbs up into the valley, headed for a waterfall a few miles upstream. Just past the composting toilets, turn away from the valley trail and continue along the Kalalau Trail. At the Hanakoa camping area, follow a much smaller, less frequented trail up the valley to the waterfall.
Permits & Regulations: Hiking the Kalalau Trail is one of the more logistically complicated hikes I’ve done. There are two key details to work out: how you’re getting to the trailhead, and whether or not you intend to hike beyond Hanakapi’ai Beach. There are a (very) limited number of parking spaces at the trailhead that are incredibly difficult to reserve. It’s easier (though pricey at $40/person) to take the Go Haena Shuttle. You can hop on at the Waiapa Park-n-Ride, or in Princeville.
If you want to hike past Hanakapi’ai Beach, you’ll also need a camping permit for the Kalalau Trail. Visit the DLNR website for more information and note that yes, you do need the “camping” permit even if you will only be day-hiking.
Resources: The DLNR website is the best resource for the trail. It includes route descriptions and all the information you need to know about permits and such. It’s also a good idea to keep a close eye on the website because the trail regularly closes for weather (e.g., flash floods) or for locals-only days.
Day Hiking the Kalalau Trail
24 Jan 2025 | 14.3 mi | +/- 4100 ft | View on Map
We board the shuttle in the dark at 6:30 AM. It takes us about 30 minutes to reach the trailhead at Haena State Park, by which time the sky has lightened a bit. A park ranger / employee briefs us on the dangers that accompany this hike: rocky terrain, slippery mud, flash floods, and rogue waves. After asking a few questions, we leave the parking area and stroll down a boardwalk through taro fields and a small army of noisy chickens.
By the time we reach the dirt single track, the sun has begun to properly rise and we’re treated to colorful cotton ball clouds hanging above the ocean. We leap-frog with other hikers from the shuttle and stop often to admire and snap pictures of the scenery. The trail itself is less rugged than I expected after hearing the ranger’s warnings this morning. There are plenty of rocks and roots to trip you up, but it’s a well-maintained, wide trail, nothing out of the ordinary compared to the trails I’m used to hiking in California.
It only takes us an hour to hike the 2-mile stretch of trail to Hanakapi’ai Beach. We sit on the rocky shore for a few minutes and watch the violent surf crash into the cliffs. Diane, who’s hiked this trail in the summer, tells us that the water is much calmer that time of year; there’s even a sandy beach to enjoy here. But not today – just crashing waves and wet rocks.
After a short break, we leave Hanakapi’ai Beach and begin down the permit-only trail. It’s a noticeably thinner, wilder path, though still clearly maintained and easy to follow. The trail climbs about 500 feet over the next half mile via a series of sharp switchbacks and then levels out a bit, contouring along the steep cliffs. I really enjoy seeing all of the jungle plants, they’re all so different from what I’m used to. We even see some wild goats with kids in tow! Like the wild pigs and omnipresent chickens, they’re not native to the Hawaiian islands, but it’s still fun to see them.
A few miles into our hike away from Hanakapi’ai Beach, we get some incredible views of the Na Pali Coast, the kind of views you see on postcards. The crashing waves, the teal water, the green hills and towering cliffs… awesome.
We reach the turn-off for the trail up to Hanakoa Falls at 11:45, just fifteen minutes before our self-imposed noon turn-around time. We’re a bit nervous about getting back to the trailhead before the last shuttle leaves at 5:30, but we’re so close to the waterfall that we decide to go for it. We’ll eat lunch and walk at the same time.
The path to the waterfall is very faint and sometimes difficult to follow, but we find our way to a pool below Hanakoa Falls. Although there’s not a ton of water flowing right now, the sheer height of the cliffs is incredible! White-trailed tropicbirds glide overhead, giving the place an otherworldly feel. With their long, flowing tails, they look like something an animator dreamed up for a tropical paradise. Erica and Luke jump in for a swim, and Brian, Kenza, and I follow suit. The water is very cold, but it feels nice after the quick push up the trail to reach the falls.
After a short swim, we pack up our things and hurry back down the faint path to the main Kalalau Trail. It’s now 12:40, so we have a little less than five hours to make it back to the trailhead. I’m not too worried — we did the hike out in about 4.5 hours — but we will need to keep moving. Thankfully, that’s easier on the way out than on the way in. We’ve seen these sights already today so there are fewer stops to stare.
We reach the end of the trail, the boardwalk, and the chickens with plenty of time to spare, so we wander over to the beach to kill a little time before the next shuttle arrives. The low tide has exposed a shallow, gently sloping sandy beach; I wander around enjoying the cool water on my feet for a little while. We soon head back to the shuttle stop though; everyone is tired and ready for food in town.
